Most of what we were hoping to experience from the trip was canceled. There was no Kotel, no Tel Aviv, no hike up Masada… But we did spend four days together and five nights in the bomb shelter… There was basically nowhere to go and not much to do. And yet, somehow, it is still one of the best trips I have been on.
The trip was not perfect by any means. We missed so much. But, still I believe we gained so much more than we missed. This trip was unforgettable and I would never change a thing about it.
SCA’s Birthright Trip in the Line of Fire:
A Journey Through War and Resilience
Linda Dayan
On June 12th 2025, Israel launched a targeted attack on Iran’s main nuclear sites. That same night, Iran retaliated with ballistic missiles of their own, leaving 30 dead, over 5,000 homeless, and causing a series of sleepless nights for Israelis around the country. The constant barrage of rockets also shut down all air travel to Israel, leaving many thousands of Israelis stranded abroad. Anyone planning to fly out of Israel suddenly could not leave the country for the foreseeable future. Among the stranded outbound travelers were many Birthright groups, including my group, an all-girls trip run by SCA, the Sephardic Community Alliance.
After that Thursday night, our group spent the following four days restricted to the area extending no more than a five-minute walk from our hotel. We were staying at the Spirit of Herzl Hotel in downtown Jerusalem on Ben Yehuda Street. The main topic of conversation became how and when we would be able to get home. The answer turned out to be a cruise ship bound for Cyprus, which was arranged by Birthright in collaboration with the Israeli government. This arrangement facilitated Birthright groups to get out of the country and Israeli citizens waiting in Cyprus to get back home. From Cyprus, SCA organized our flights. Within 24 hours, we were on our way to JFK airport with a seven-hour stopover in Milan. We spent about 70 hours in transit, nearly three days. Whenever I relay the experience, I am often asked the same question: was it worth it?
Birthright’s Itinerary Cut in Half
Birthright was designed to show young diaspora Jews all that Israel has to offer. The itinerary is carefully planned to showcase both the hidden and the well-known and loved gems of Israel. Clearly, this trip was cut too short. Friday the 13th was meant to be a day at the shuk (the outdoor market), and many dreamed of the Kabbalat Shabbat at the Kotel as promised in the itinerary. But those dreams never came to fruition.
Jacqueline Halabi, another girl on the trip says, “It hurt in my soul to be stripped of the opportunity to pray by the Kotel. Visiting Israel without experiencing that holiness was unfathomable to me, so much so that I was anxiety ridden as soon as the war broke out. Being a short drive away for days, yet confined to the hotel … I felt powerless.” Most of what we were hoping to experience from the trip was canceled. There was no Kotel, no Tel Aviv, no hike up Masada, and no night spent in Bedouin tents. But we did spend four days together and five nights in the “bomb shelter,” which was just the dining room on the hotel’s lowest level. Instead of traveling the country we were only allowed to stray five minutes walking distance from the hotel. There was basically nowhere to go and not much to do. And yet, somehow, it is still one of the best trips I have been on.
Worried Family Members Call
Throughout our stay at the Spirit of Herzl Hotel, I got many phone calls from concerned family members asking about the safety of my sister and me. “Are you okay?” “Do you feel safe?” “Are you hoping for the next flight out?” My answers were always yes, we are safe and okay, and if we have to stay in Israel an extra week since the skies are closed, so be it.
Most callers responded, “You are only so calm because you don’t truly understand the situation.” But, how could we not? SCA was doing everything they could to keep us informed and in the loop. Our chaperones, Sonny and Lauren Setton, and our tour guide, Ido Reuven, made sure to share with us anything they heard to make us feel less lost. We were confined to the hotel and the immediate surrounding area, alerts from the phone ap “Tzofar-Red Alert” were constant, and we could not even visit the Kotel, which was only a 30-minute walk from the hotel, because there is no bunker there. Of course, we understood the danger, but we also had things that my family outside of Israel did not. The news is a constant barrage of the worst. They flood our feeds with death, destruction, and horror stories. While unfortunately those things do happen you cannot wallow in it.
Keeping our Cool
While the country was at war the streets around us were never empty and never quiet. The piano in Zion Square was constantly in use, the restaurants were not deserted. While the foot traffic was less than it usually would be, there were always people out. Being in Israel taught us that while it is important to recognize the tragedies that occur, and to sit with them, it is also important not to drown in them and to recognize that we must also hold close what joy we can.
We were we surrounded by Israeli culture and we also had ten soldiers join us on our trip for five days. We became fast friends. Within the first day we already had new shared jokes and shared experiences we would never forget. And Thursday night, when most of us experienced our first rush to the bomb shelter at 2:30am, our soldier friends helped keep it light. If anyone had a question about what was happening, there was an answer. And while we were made aware that since the attack was from Iran it would be more intense than missile attacks from Gaza (which has much less sophisticated weapons), we were told so in a way that kept panic at bay. And since the time in the shelter became every night occasion, we grew to expect it and adapted to the situation. Although it was impossible to guess exactly when the alarms would sound, they typically sounded at night, so many of us made a point to shower early, and wear pajamas that we would not be embarrassed to wear if we had to run to the shelter.
The sirens created a routine, and routine creates stability, no matter how unstable the situation was in reality. A key factor as to why we felt this stability was because of the soldiers’ presence. They were only scheduled to stay with us for five days, meaning that unfortunately, that Sunday they had to leave us to go back to their base.
Heading Home
Once the soldiers left the air shifted. They had become a big part of the group and were crucial to the positive atmosphere created at the hotel. With their absence, where we were stared us in the face again, and the number of the requests from group members to move from the hotel grew.
That Sunday, morphing into Monday, we began to hear of groups leaving Jerusalem for Eilat. One of the groups staying with us left for Eilat that Sunday night. We began to grow antsy. No one knew what was happening or when we would be allowed to further explore the country or the city. In those four days after our soldiers left the group grew extremely close. Girls who I have known my whole life but had never spoken to became my close friends. But long conversations and longer games of Jungle Speed could not keep away the feelings of anticipation and uncertainty.
Our chaperones tried their best to keep our spirits up. Ido led us on a walking tour of our surrounding area. Sonny and Lauren let us walk to the bakery farther up the street. Ido tried to find us sushi to take a break from the hotel’s meat buffet, but sadly the sushi restaurant was closed. These were seemingly little things, but they made a huge difference.
We were told that by 9pm that night (Sunday) we would be taking a cruise from Haifa to Cyprus, and from there we would make our way home.
Was It Worth It?
So, back to the question everyone loves to ask: was it worth it? The short answer is yes. I asked my friend Esther Shaab the same question, and she said the following: “Growing up I would always hear stories from my father about how amazing Israel is and how every Jew needs to go there at least once in their life. I took this advice and signed up for Birthright not knowing how my trip would inevitably turn out. As it was my first time in Israel, I was excited to do anything and everything Mayanot [Mayanot is one of the organizations that organizes and runs Birthright trips, and is affiliated with the Mayanot Institute of Jewish Studies] and SCA had planned for us.
The first few days of the trip were amazing and then the war began. At first this was not something I was happy about. How could I be? More than half my trip was now obsolete. Things like the Kotel, Tel Aviv, climbing Masada, experiencing the shuk, were all things I would not be able to do. But even though I missed out on most of my trip, I wouldn’t change a thing.
“The people I met including all of the girls and the Israeli soldiers that joined us for a couple days are some of the most amazing people that I now consider some of my best friends. The relationships I have gained outweighs any negatives I experienced on the trip. People have asked me since I got back,‘Did it ruin Israel for you?’‘You’re never going back, right?’They couldn’t be more wrong. This experience actually made me want to go back more than ever. This trip will always hold a special place in my heart and I will never forget it.” The trip was not perfect by any means. We missed so much. But, still I believe we gained so much more than we missed. This trip was unforgettable and I would never change a thing about it.